By Ed Viesturs, David Roberts
In nationwide bestseller The Mountain, world-renowned climber and bestselling writer Ed Viesturs and cowriter David Roberts paint a brilliant portrait of obsession, commitment, and human fulfillment in a real love letter to the world’s maximum peak.
In The Mountain, veteran world-class climber and bestselling writer Ed Viesturs—the purely American to have climbed all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks—trains his points of interest on Mount Everest in richly unique money owed of expeditions which are via turns own, harrowing, lethal, and inspiring.
The maximum mountain on the earth, Everest is still the final word target for severe high-altitude climbers. Viesturs has long past on 11 expeditions to Everest, spending greater than years of his existence at the mountain and achieving the summit seven instances. No climber this day is best poised to survey Everest’s quite a few ascents—both own and historical. Viesturs sheds mild at the destiny of Mallory and Irvine, whose 1924 disappearance simply 800 toes from the summit is still one in every of mountaineering’s maximum mysteries, in addition to the multiply tragic final days of Rob corridor and Scott Fischer in 1996, the stuff of which Into skinny Air used to be made.
Informed via the event of 1 who has really been there, The Mountain presents a unprecedented glimpse into that position in the world the place Heraclitus’s maxim—“Character is destiny”—is proved again and again.
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Additional info for The Mountain: My Time on Everest
Now, having learn McDonald’s account of the climb, I’m extra in awe of it than ever. Hats off to the Poles, to the imaginative and prescient it took even to conceive of a iciness ascent of Everest that early, and to the braveness it took to tug it off. • • • talking of Messner, the good climber from the German-speaking South Tyrol zone of Italy, had first made a reputation for himself within the Nineteen Sixties, with very tough alpine routes in very quickly occasions in his local Dolomites. within the Andes in 1969, he paired up with the Austrian climber Peter Habeler before everything of 1 of the mythical partnerships in mountain climbing background. In 1974, the 2 males astonished the mountaineering international by means of speeding up the Eiger Nordwand in just ten hours, halving the former list. the following 12 months, they climbed Gasherbrum I within the Karakoram within the purest of alpine styles—three days, with out porters or teammate help and no bottled oxygen, fixing technical problems with no even bothering to rope up. because the days of Mallory, climbers had argued approximately no matter if it was once attainable to climb Everest with out assistance from oxygen. even supposing at the 1924 day trip Teddy Norton had reached 28,150 ft with out it, within the subsequent fifty years not anyone had long gone better with no respiring bottled gasoline. In 1978, Habeler and Messner made up our minds to attempt. Allying themselves loosely with an Austrian excursion, they went for the head unsupported on could eight. Many within the hiking international had anticipated that anybody attempting the sort of feat may die within the test, or no less than undergo irreversible mind harm. a few participants in their personal celebration have been skeptical concerning the knowledge of the hassle. yet Messner and Habeler pulled off the 1st oxygenless ascent of Everest in blithe variety, notwithstanding at the approach down Messner reduced in size snow blindness that grew to become the extra descent from the South Col into a tribulation. i used to be eighteen years outdated whilst the 2 males comprehensive that feat, and the scoop in their triumph electrified me. The pictures of these males mountain climbing “naked”—wearing merely down fits, wearing no rucksacks, with just a handful of snacks and a liter of water each one of their pockets—were captivating, as i attempted to visualize myself of their sneakers. after all, that ascent of Everest in 1978 profoundly encouraged my very own selection to attempt to wake up all fourteen 8,000ers with no supplemental oxygen. Messner set the normal in Himalayan mountaineering. a real visionary, years sooner than his time, he broke actual and mental boundaries that nobody else had dared to check. in addition to being a very good mountaineer, Messner was once a purist and an idealist. A publication he wrote in 1981, known as Siebter Grad, translated into English because the 7th Grade, has develop into essentially the most influential polemics within the historical past of our hobby. In it, Messner argues for mountaineering mountains in basic terms “by reasonable means,” wherein he implies now not depending too seriously on man made aids and defense hatches. a few of his words became catchwords in mountain climbing, corresponding to the aspersion opposed to climbers “who hold their braveness of their rucksack.